Considering
my time in Alsace is running out, I decided it was about time I delved deeper
into the small corner of France that has been my home for the last 6 months…
The smallest of Frances’ regions, what Alsace lacks in size it certainly makes
up for in history, culture, and a unique-ness that leaves it the subject of
much speculation both on the part of tourists and the « français de l’intérieur » who make
up the other 21 regions of metropolitan France.
I
recently read found this summary of the strengths and weaknesses of the
Alsatian language (a regional dialect deriving from German and the mark of
Alsace’s turbulent history and unique identity!), which is apparently…. “harsh but picturesque, almost matter of
fact yet poignant, and rich in connotations which escape the non-Alsatian and
lead to an impression of coldness…” and was struck by the fact that this
seems to apply not just to the language but indeed to the region itself. Even at face value the climatic extremes of
freezing winters and sweltering summers, combined with the beauty of a natural
landscape of the mountains (having a view of Les Vosges is something I am starting to take for granted) sweeping
down to the foot-hills adorned with vineyards fit the stereotype of a perplexing
amalgamation of differences, producing a memorable singularity for both the
tourist and the proud Alsatian resident. The richness of a region with a long
and confusing history, the unique blend of Franco and Germanic culture, and a
position both literally and strategically at the heart of Europe, leaves Alsace
something of a peculiarity, looked on with curiosity from afar and the subject
of fierce pride from within. It is no wonder some see being a resident of
Alsace like joining a club. You’re either in or you’re out. Whether you
converse in “the dialect” or not…
I
thought it would be interesting to uncover some of these regards sur Alsace and decide if the myth really is a reality….
(and no not just the legend of the Storck…though that could be interesting)
1. Parlez-vous francais? “I heard they
don’t even speak French there….”
Alsace
being a region wherein the only languages spoken are German or Alsatian is
(luckily for me) not at all true. French has been widely spoken since the 19th
century, and is today of course the official and working language. Phew.
However, some linguistic particularities must be noted. The German language remains important due to
geographical proximity and periods of annexation in which German became the
language of education. As a result, most of the older generation remain
bilingual, and German remains the principal foreign language taught in schools.
In Alsace English is only begun at secondary school level, unlike all other
regions of France! Secondly, of most historical
importance is Alsatian, traditionally the language of the region. Despite no longer being a working language,
40% of the adult population still speak the dialect. What’s more, even if used less frequently its
influence and status as a mark of Alsace’s unique identity will remain. Even if the younger generations no longer
understand the language of their ancestors, certain words and phrases will
remain a link with the past… My favourite has to be the exclamation even the l’anglaise in the room can make use
of: “Hopla!” is employed when putting
anything down/away/to the side, changing places, parking your car (bike),
jumping in a puddle/off a wall, leaving a room, …. Bref,
it is a thoroughly useful contribution of the dialect to the every day
life of the Alsatian (real or imposter).
2. Pass me my coiffe et jupe rouge....
The Alsacienne is typically imagined
sporting a fetching frilly blouse, red skirt, topped off (literally) with the
infamous coiffe (aka black headdress
in the form of an oversized bow….). Her days are spent outside a half-timbered
coloured house in a picturesque village, fetching water from the stream,
rustling up a plate of choucroute whilst
waiting for the Kougelhopf to rise, and then heading off for some folk
dancing in the square.
Sadly
this is more a scene from Hansi than
the reality of daily life in Alsace today.
Despite
our folklore inspired images being a little more post-card than
fly-on-the-wall, this is not to say that some of the stereotypes aren’t based
on (an all be it historic) reality. The coloured houses in pretty villages do
exist, even if their inhabitants don’t dress up and go dancing… and of course
the cuisine that gives Alsace its food-loving reputation is a reality. The
Germanic influence means if you’re a vegetarian you’re better of bringing a
packed lunch…. or as an alternative fill up on all things patisserie which Alsace does in both quality and quantity. It has also been to my delight to note that
recipes are filed seasonally…with a different range of specialities adorning
the window of the boulangerie according
to time of year. Since Easter is approaching, and the Easter egg is not
original enough for the region of peculiarities, I had the pleasure this week
of sampling a piece of Lamala – a
simple genoise sponge, but in the form of a Lamb. It was almost a shame to have
to slice into it, but alas Alsatians value the eating as much as the design. Güet àppetit!
(the nearest I have got to sporting the traditional look.....)
3. Was wohr isch, ish wohr, un wenn’s nit wohr isch, isch geloje” – (what’s true is true, and what is not true is a lie)
This
Alsatian proverb is captures the straight-talking nature of the Alsatian, just
one example of a Germanic disposition claimed to characterise every Hans,
Marthe und Angele… Bearing the image of
bluntness, rigidity and even coldness akin to the weather, the inhabitants of
Alsace don’t get of lightly where stereotypes are concerned.
Despite
this negative image being far from an accurate representation, there are some
elements of a common mentality that can be both witnessed and explained. I have
had several testimonies to the characteristically reserved nature of the
Alsatian people. A history of occupation and common fear and mistrust has left
its mark, causing a defensiveness and protectiveness over all that is personal.
This does not however equate to a chill in their relationships that matches the
sub-zero temperatures outside. Au
contraire, I have both heard of and experienced the generosity and warmth
of Alsatian people, typically willing to help out and provide, as well as the
loyalty and fidelity that summarises their interaction. If you gain the trust
of an Alsatian, you’ll be friends for life. And lets not forget the ultimate
benefit of a Germanic mind-set in that people speak more slowly… something I
have gladly benefited from…. They may tell you like it is, but at least you’ll
understand what’s “wohr” when you hear it.
My sejour en Alsace is drawing to an end,
and yet it seems I have only just scratched the surface in understanding this
small but note-worthy corner of France. 3 weeks is perhaps not enough to pass the
initiation into the club, but at least I’m a little closer than when I
arrived. S'ech geut dess!*
* C'est bien, ca! .... as far as linguistic initiation goes, i think i'm pretty much there, non?
** Random fact : Unlike all other regions of France, the trains here run on the right instead of the left! Alsace has to do its own thing, even where the TGV is concerned...
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